Coca-Cola, Chickens, and Spiritual Journeys: Exploring Mayan Rituals in Chamula
Please note - this article contains depictions of animal sacrifice. Please take care whilst reading.
Chiapas, a region rich in culture and history, is full of hidden gems waiting to be explored. While researching things to do in the area, I stumbled upon an article about a small, fascinating town that offered a unique glimpse into Mayan spiritual practices. Intrigued, I decided to make a visit to San Juan de Chamula, home to a church unlike any other, where Coca-Cola, chickens, and ancient rituals combine in a way that tells a powerful story of tradition and belief.
A Journey to the Heart of Chamula
We made our way to Chamula, eager to see the colloquially named "chicken church” of Chamula. Navigating through the winding backstreets, we finally emerged into the main town square. The sight that greeted us was striking—the towering church standing at the center of the square, surrounded by street food vendors and local artisans selling their goods. The church commanded the space, both physically and spiritually, as it was clear this was the beating heart of the community.
Chamula is home to the Tzotzil Maya people, and as I looked around, I saw many locals dressed in traditional clothing: women in black wool skirts made from sheep’s long hair, and men in tunics woven from the same material. The energy in the square was palpable—people were marching in brightly colored attire, fireworks were going off in the distance, and bands played festive tunes. The square was alive with movement and celebration.
But our true destination was the church—one that blends Catholic architecture with ancient Mayan rituals, offering an experience that was both spiritual and surreal.
Inside Chamula Church
This church, built in the 16th century, is a fascinating mix of Catholic and Mayan beliefs. Unlike most churches, where photography is common, photography inside this church is strictly prohibited. Signs make it clear that violators risk facing hefty fines, or even jail time. This is because the Tzotzil people believe that taking a photograph steals part of the soul, and as a result, they take their no-photography rule very seriously.
After purchasing our tickets, we took a few quick snaps of the church's exterior—its green arches adorned with intricate carvings—before stowing our electronics away in our bags. We stepped into the church, eager to experience something truly unique.
The transition from the bright sunlight outside to the dimly lit interior was striking. It took a moment for my eyes to adjust, but when they did, the scene before me was almost otherworldly. The church's white stone walls were draped with fabric, and the entire space was filled with flickering candlelight. Pictures of Catholic saints, alongside depictions of Mayan deities, lined the walls, illuminated by the glow of thousands of candles. The air was thick with the smell of pine and incense, while the heat from the candle flames mixed with the heavy smoke, making the atmosphere almost suffocating. The only sound was the soft, rhythmic chanting of worshippers in the Tzotzil language.
The floor, rather than being covered in traditional wooden pews, was lined with a thick blanket of pine needles. Worshippers knelt in groups in front of specific deities or the main altar, setting up rows of candles—three rows in total—with the largest candles placed in the back and each one lit from back to front. In front of the candles, bottles of Coca-Cola and a light brown liquid—later revealed to be pox (pronounced "posh"), a strong alcohol made from cane sugar—were placed. These elements were part of an intricate, spiritual healing ritual.
Rituals of Life, Death, and Healing
Families of all ages knelt in front of the candles, chanting in unison as they lit them. The atmosphere was calm yet deeply focused, with each individual participating in a very personal, meditative ritual. We watched as chickens were brought out of boxes and tied up—some had their legs bound, others placed in bags to keep them still. These chickens were then passed over the candles and over the heads of family members in rhythmic motions, as the chanting continued. Strangely, the chickens appeared calm, almost hypnotized by the ritual.
Once the prayers had been said, the chickens were sacrificed—most had their necks broken swiftly, while others seemed to struggle. We even witnessed a family resorting to using a broom to complete the task. Once the sacrifice was made, the chickens were placed on the ground, and the worshippers drank from their bottles of Coca-Cola and pox, some spitting the liquids onto the candles in a ritualistic "Holy Water" gesture. The chickens were then returned to their boxes (to be taken home and eaten), and the worshippers gathered their belongings, poured any remaining beverages on the candles, and exited. Volunteers then cleaned the space, extinguishing candles and preparing the church for the next ceremony.
Understanding the Rituals
What had we just witnessed? The rituals performed at the church vary depending on the specific ceremony being conducted. Some are meant to ask for blessings, others to give thanks, and some are part of more elaborate healing rituals. Families consult shamans or healers prior to their visit who prescribe the specifics of the ceremony—such as which saint to worship, the colors of the candles, and whether a chicken sacrifice is needed to achieve their goal.
The sacrificial chickens are typically used when a family member is very sick. It’s believed that the sickness transfers to the chicken during the ritual, and when the chicken is sacrificed, the illness will dissipate from the person. The colour of the chicken sacrificed is symbolic, tied to the type of sickness being healed.
As for Coca-Cola and pox—the Tzotzil believe that burping after drinking Coca-Cola releases evil spirits from the body, while drinking pox and becoming drunk brings the individual closer to the spiritual realm.
A Spiritual Experience Like No Other
My partner and I spent nearly an hour in the church, observing the different variations of the ritual as they unfolded before us. Eventually, a friendly, yet overly enthusiastic, worshipper approached me, requesting a hug and kiss, which made us decide it was time to make our exit. However, I could have easily stayed much longer, captivated by the powerful, spiritual energy of the place.
Our visit to the "chicken church" in Chamula was an unforgettable experience, one that allowed us to step into a world where ancient Mayan traditions and Catholism exist in a unique and meaningful way. It was a rare opportunity to witness a living, breathing part of a culture that remains deeply connected to its spiritual roots.